Top 10 True Western Towns of 2008

Top 10 True Western Towns of 2008

Categories: Featured Travel Stories

By: TW Editors 01/02/2008

Given to towns that have made an important contribution to preserving their pasts. We hope this award will encourage federal, state and local governments to continue funding such efforts, as well as inspire Western towns to reward its citizens and visitors alike by showcasing the buildings, sites and artifacts that reveal each town’s historical relevance to our nation.

 

 10. SAN DIEGO, CA

You think “San Diego,” and your mind conjures up images of sunshine, beautiful beaches, a laid back SoCal lifestyle. Or maybe you think of the city’s fabulous zoo, which attracts more than three million visitors per year. Perhaps the area’s huge Navy and Marine bases pop into your head.

You don’t necessarily think “Old West,” do you?

Yet this is a city with incredible history—and a determination to keep it alive through preservation, restoration and development of its resources.

Take the Old Town section, the site of the first permanent Spanish settlement in California (1769). Today, the district is hopping with restaurants and trendy shops, many in authentic or recreated 19th-century buildings. The Old Town State Historic Park, Heritage Park and Presidio Park feature museums and living history exhibits that reveal what life was like in the frontier days. Citizen groups like the Boosters of Old Town and the Save Our History Organization oversee buildings, provide tours, plan and sponsor events, and raise money for preservation efforts.

Then there’s the Gaslamp Quarter in the middle of downtown. Back in the 1880s, it was called the Stingaree, and visitors found lots of ways to get stung—saloons, gambling halls, brothels and similarly sordid places. This magnet attracted businessmen seeking to make an easy buck, including Wyatt Earp, who dabbled in bars, betting, real estate and horse racing. 

Over time, the section went downhill (hard to believe); buildings deteriorated, crime was rampant and porn was king. That changed in the 1970s when a coalition of government officials, business leaders and civic groups came up with redevelopment plans. By 1980, the Gaslamp was a national historic district. Within a few years, work had begun to reclaim the area from the dregs. Today, most of the splendid Victorian structures gleam in the sun, converted to new use as residential lofts, galleries, theaters, boutiques and shops.

Another dozen historic districts beyond Gaslamp’s can be found in San Diego. More are in the works.

So the sun shines brightly on San Diego’s heritage and historic preservation. Who needs the beaches? 

 

9. CASPER, WY

Thank goodness Casper has had better luck than its namesake.

In July 1865, Lt. Caspar Collins led a detachment assigned to protect a supply wagon train. His troops collided with a huge force of Indians, led by Red Cloud. When the dust settled, the young officer had 24 arrows in his body. The Army decided to honor his sacrifice, renaming the nearby post Fort Caspar.

The fort closed less than two years later.

When a nearby town developed in 1888, citizens decided to keep the name—but somebody misspelled it “Casper.” 

Some guys get no respect.

But Casper is no Rodney Dangerfield. Its heritage and preservation make it a Top 10 True Western Town. After all, thousands of pioneers using the Oregon, California and Mormon Trails all trekked through the area. So did the Pony Express. To explain and commemorate the pioneers’ overland experiences, the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center opened to the public in 2002. The project is a partnership between local and federal governments and a nonprofit organization. The facility provides numerous interactive exhibits that tell the story of Westward expansion. Visitors can experience what it felt like to cross the North Platte in a covered wagon and how tough one had to be to walk hundreds of miles with Mormon handcart emigrants.

Then there’s the Fort Caspar Museum, a recreation (built 70 years ago) of the old military post, with buildings including the barracks, blacksmith shop, sutler’s store, telegraph office and commissary. The museum even has a ferry identical to the one set up by the Mormons in 1847. A recent addition is some 6,000 square feet of exhibit, classroom and preservation storage space. The price tag? $1.5 million, which was paid for by private contributions and public funds.

Downtown Casper is no slouch. The city, Chamber of Commerce and development authority all recognize that historic preservation is key to a vital and viable downtown. A number of buildings dating back to the 1920s still dot these streets, finding new uses in our modern society. The South Wolcott Street Historic District dates back even further, to the early years of the 20th century, and features the homes of many prominent citizens of the period.

All in all, if Lt. Caspar Collins is looking down on the town that sort-of bears his name, he’s probably pretty pleased. The town sure has seen more successes than he did.

 

8. WICKENBURG, AZ

The Chamber of Commerce claims, “Arizona’s Wild West Lives in Wickenburg.” The members got that right. Wickenburg is a survivor that knows and honors its heritage.

Wickenburg was founded in 1863 by Henry Wickenburg, who struck it big with the Vulture Mine operation (which gave up about $30 million in gold). Its early years were plagued by Indian attacks—the most famous being the so-called Wickenburg Massacre in which a group of Yavapai killed six stage passengers in 1871. In 1890, the Walnut Creek Dam burst and 70 people drowned. Many of the mines played out by the end of the 19th century. Misfortune eventually caught up with the town’s father; after a series of business failures, Henry Wickenburg shot himself in 1905.

His town lived on. The railroad was one reason; it brought the world to Wickenburg in 1895. The original Santa Fe Depot is still there, now housing the Chamber of Commerce. The Old 761 Steam Locomotive, which rode those rails for years, is just behind City Hall. Most of the buildings in downtown date to the 19th century and are well preserved by folks who obviously care about their downtown. While you’re down there, ask to see the Jail Tree. This 200-year-old mesquite was used to hold lawbreakers for the first 20 or so years of the town’s history; bad boys were literally chained to the thing, bringing new meaning to the term “frontier justice.”

You’ll discover some great spots just outside of town too. The Hassayampa River Preserve is a renowned spot for birders; other wildlife includes mountain lions, bobcats, mule deer and lizards. A different kind of bird took flight here too—the Vulture, the mine that started the whole shebang, is still there (not operating) and open to the public. If you want to try out the cowboy life—temporarily, of course—you’ll find many a guest ranch in the area; the first, the Bar FX, got going 85 years ago.

If you’re the museum type, there’s few that match the Desert Caballeros Western Museum. Exhibits tell the history of the area—but it’s the art collection that stands out. You’ll find masterpieces by Remington, Russell and Dixon.

Preservation work continues. The Old Texas Hotel was renovated last year. And restoration of the Santa Fe Depot is ongoing. Folks around town are committed to maintaining that Old West look and feel.

Wickenburg is one of those hidden treasures, hard as a diamond in the rough, which more folks should check out.

 

7. PENDLETON, OR

It might (or might not) interest you to know that Pendleton was once sold for a span of horses. Seriously.

Or at least that goes for some of the land Pendleton now stands on. Back in the early 1860s, Moses Goodwin convinced a squatter to give up his turf in exchange for a couple of equines. In 1868, Goodwin gave two-and-a-half acres of that land to the town site. And voila! Pendleton was up and running (so to speak).

Nowadays, Pendleton is also associated with horses (and cows and cowboys). That’s beyond the fact that you’ll still find horse rings on downtown curbs. The annual Round-up has been a huge attraction since its inception in 1910, and it’s still considered a premier rodeo event. That’s one reason more than 300,000 people visited Pendleton last year (up from about 200,000 in 2000). 

But there’s plenty of other attractions, like the Victorian downtown area. Much of it is a national historic district, and several other buildings are also on the national register. The old train depot is home to the Heritage Station Museum (there’s also an annex), run by the Umatilla County Historical Society. It features exhibits and demonstrations about local history and culture—and includes an 1879 log cabin and a one-room schoolhouse built in 1878. Ten minutes east of Pendleton is the Tamástlikt Cultural Institute, which honors 10,000 years of history for the local Cayuse, Umatilla and Walla Walla tribes. The annual tribal art show, held in August, is a must-attend event on the local calendar.

What’s also impressive about Pendleton is its determination to preserve its past. The urban renewal district is up and running, looking for new ways to use old buildings. This past year, renovation of the Hamley Saddle Shop Building was completed. A facade restoration grant program is doling out more than $900,000 over a two-year period. And officials plan to expand the downtown historic district in coming years.

The locals are eager for folks to see what’s going on too. The county tourism budget hit $124 million last year, and much of it went to an impressive array of promotional and marketing campaigns.

It sure looks like that horse trade more than 140 years ago has paid off for Pendleton—and for those who come to visit.

 

6. DURANGO, CO

Durango’s gain was Animas City’s loss.

Back in 1880, officials at the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad were looking to set up service in the San Juan mining district. The mountain town of Silverton was going to be a major stop on the line. The D&RG wanted Animas City to be another. Except for one little thing—the railroad asked for a “contribution” from the town. The town fathers refused. So the depot was built at Durango—which the railroad created from whole cloth. Result: Durango boomed and is still with us. Animas City declined and isn’t.

Durango has managed to preserve its heritage in spite of some huge economic changes, such as when mining petered out in the 1950s-60s. Tourism and recreational sports (read: skiing) more than made up for the slack. And Victorian buildings have new life as boutique shops, restaurants and lofts. No wonder the National Trust for Historic Preservation named the town one of America’s Dozen Distinctive Destinations last year.

Another reason for the recognition—quality museums. The Anasazi Heritage Center, Center for Southwest Studies, Animas Museum and the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum maintain and tell the stories of the various cultures, events and individuals who made this area so remarkable.

Locals are intent on staying on that path. 

Renovations are ongoing at the 1893 Power House. It’s the oldest steam AC power plant in the country; plans call for it to be the Durango Discovery Museum when it opens in 2009. Work was completed on the El Rancho Tavern before, sadly, a fire destroyed part of the building. Restoration continues on the Wallace Furniture and McKnight Jewelry buildings.

Work has even improved the legendary Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad—the operation has gone “green.” Faced with a decision of modifying its current fuel or going to steam power, officials opted to burn coal during the day and wood pellets at night. So the railroad throws out less pollution while maintaining its historical accuracy during daylight operations.

Moreover, city fathers, business leaders and concerned citizens have drawn up plans to further economic development while preserving and maintaining Durango’s heritage. This groundbreaking effort promises to be a blueprint for similar towns in coming years. The future is bright, indeed.

Say, whatever happened to Animas City?

 

5. DODGE CITY, KS

A handful of Western towns are truly legendary, boasting a remarkable history and getting a huge boost from pop culture and media over the past century. You know the names—Tombstone, Lincoln, New Mexico. 

The Queen of the Cowtowns attracted folks like the Earps, Doc Holliday, Clay Allison, Mysterious Dave Mather, Dave Rudabaugh, Charlie Siringo, Luke Short and Bill Tilghman. Who can forget the fictional Matt Dillon of Gunsmoke? For some, the 1950s’ TV?show is a first introduction to Dodge City’s Long Branch Saloon, Boot Hill and Front Street.

It’s hard to believe that town leaders tore down much of that history in 1970. The wrecking ball took out most of the old brick buildings on Front Street—all in the name of urban renewal (translated as a new convention center, which was never built, and more parking). What in the hell were they thinking?

Fortunately, townsfolk came to their senses and realized that tourism was a big boon for Dodge, and they began to preserve the heritage that still remained. The Old Dodge City Historic District—more or less centered on Wyatt Earp Boulevard—features Boot Hill, the 1897 Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Depot, the Carnegie library (now an arts center), St. Cornelius Episcopal Church (built 1898) and the Mueller-Schmidt House Museum, which dates back to 1881. Dodge City is home to 20 local historic landmarks, with 11 of those on the National Register. Restoration projects continue on several of those buildings.

A number of groups have spearheaded local preservation efforts. The Ford County Historical Society and Kansas Heritage Center both preserve documents, photos and artifacts; they also use their resources to tell the story of Dodge City’s history. The city’s Historic Landmark Commission raises funds to restore Old Dodge and works to gain historic designation for buildings. The Santa Fe Trail Association aims to save the heritage of that legendary route and to educate folks about its impact.

Organizations are willing to spend big bucks to make it all happen. If you toss in the museums, the convention and visitors bureau and Boot Hill, the operating budgets totaled nearly $4 million last year. That’s pretty sizeable for a town of 27,000.

So give credit where credit is due: Dodge City has made a nice comeback in the last 30-some years, and it’s headed in the right direction for the future. The citizens’ attitude and resilience earned Dodge City the distinction of being one of this year’s True Western Towns.

 

4. CHEYENNE, WY

In January 1902, Tom Horn came to Cheyenne, Wyoming, to do a little talkin’.

Too much, as it turned out.

Deputy U.S. Marshal Joe Lefors persuaded Horn to come to the marshal’s office on the second floor of a building on the Concord Block. Supposedly, they were meeting to discuss a Montana stock detective job for Horn. But the conversation turned to the murder of 14-year-old Willie Nickell six months earlier. Lefors provided some liquid libation for the always-thirsty Horn, who tended to be a braggart even in the most sober moments.

This time, he more or less confessed to killing Nickell. Lefors had two stenographers hidden from sight, copying down all Horn said. Before he left that office, Horn had pretty much put a noose around his neck.

That office is now open to the public, thanks to Sue Miller, who owns the building (and put $1 million into renovating it). By the way, it’s now called the Tom Horn Building—for obvious reasons.

What’s also obvious is the desire by Cheyenne residents to preserve and share the history of their Western town. Among the projects:

• Redevelopment of the historic Cheyenne Depot as a museum.

• Addition of a fifth National Historic District with about 395 structures.

• Start of construction on a working downtown livery stable, to encourage more horse activity.

• Development of an innovative tour of the city’s museums; visitors can use their cell phones to hear local history.

• Initial land use planning for 20,000 acres of the Belvoir Ranch southwest of town for cultural and recreational programs. Prior to the 1860s, this was Indian land, and the city has reached out to elders of the Northern Arapahoe, Shoshoni and Northern Cheyenne tribes to walk and help interpret the history of the place.

Cheyenne is already home to fantastic museums, from the Frontier Days Old West Museum to the Nelson Museum of the West to the Wyoming State Museum. Its top-notch events include the Heart of the West Festival of cowboy poetry, music, art and storytelling; the Single Action Shooting Society’s Hell on Wheels Shoot-out; and, of course, the world famous Cheyenne Frontier Days. There’s always something going on in Cheyenne.

The town’s slogan is “Cheyenne—Live the Legend.” We’ve said it before: the message is more than correct. It’s an invitation to step back into the Old West.

 

3. TRINIDAD, CO

We’ll admit it—we didn’t think of Trinidad (the one in Colorado, not the one in the Caribbean) as a big tourist spot. We were wrong.

More than 400,000 people visited in 2006. And they’re following a lot of folks from the past. In the 1800s, thousands passed through Trinidad on the Santa Fe Trail. Others stopped by en route from New Mexico to Denver (now I-25). In 1882, that group included Wyatt Earp and Doc Holliday, fresh from the infamous Vendetta Ride and running from Arizona authorities; their pal Bat Masterson was Trinidad’s town marshal.

Things haven’t changed much since they dropped by.

The El Corazon de Trinidad National Historic District basically covers downtown and more than 40 buildings. Some 6.5 miles of brick streets meander through Trinidad, giving even greater authenticity to structures like the Baca House, an 1870 adobe restored to its traditional look and containing period furnishings and art. The Bloom Mansion, built in 1882, is currently being renovated. The Santa Fe Trail Museum is housed in the former workers’ quarters at the Baca House and features exhibits of the area’s past.

Several other preservation projects are either underway or in the planning stages. One of Trinidad’s largest commercial buildings, the McCormick, is almost finished. The Toltec Building is being converted to retail and residences. Owners had to replace a back brick wall and strengthen the first floor supports of the Barela Building. The White/Glenn residence is being changed from a B&B into meeting rooms and antiques. The Jaffa Opera House has a new owner who plans to restore it to its 1882 appearance. 

All of those are private efforts, undertaken by individuals or businesses. Some public projects include a facelift for city hall, stabilization of the Bloom House and restoration of the Temple Aaron. The bottom line: Trinidad works hard to maintain its heritage.

The city celebrates that heritage by hosting events like the Santa Fe Trail Festival and the County Rodeo and Fair, which dates back to 1910.

Frankly, this description covers just a fragment of the historic sites, institutions, events and preservation efforts that make Trinidad special. You’d be surprised, just as we were. Maybe the best way to find out is to join the hundreds of thousands who visit this Top True Western Town each year.

 

2. DEADWOOD, SD

Al Swearengen didn’t play fair.

Now that’s not just the depiction of the man on HBO’s late, lamented Deadwood. Nope. The real McCoy was a real piece of work too. Al tricked Eastern women into coming West by promising them jobs and/or husbands—and when they arrived, he forced them to become prostitutes. He and the boys beat the women to keep them in line. He tossed some out when they lost their charms.

That doesn’t even touch on his other swindles and shady activities.

Al did not play fair.

It can be argued that the modern Deadwood has taken a similar approach to historic preservation and tourism. 

Back in 1989, the city legalized gambling, with gaming tax revenues going toward protecting the area’s historic resources and enticing folks to visit. It’s a unique strategy that puts Deadwood head and shoulders above practically any Western town you can imagine, at least in terms of financial commitment to preservation and promotion. Last year, the money totaled more than $2.8 million. And well over a million souls came to the town of Bullock and Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane—which has a population of just 1,400. Those are not typos.

The Historic Preservation Commission projects range from the mundane to the magnificent. Old buildings (and streets and retaining walls) need regular maintenance. Work has been done recently on City Hall, the library, the Visitor/Interpretive Center (housed in a restored 1897 train station), city steps and replica historic streetlights. Funds also support the Adams House and the Adams Museum, and the Days of ’76 Museum, which all have some of the best collections of artifacts from Deadwood’s past. Other funds are used to support local events, like the Days of ’76 Rodeo.

Then there’s the $200,000 that bought a collection of Wild Bill items in 2006—the gun the lawman was reportedly wearing when he was gunned down in 1876, letters between Hickok and his family, and original photos of the hanging of his killer Jack McCall. The collection was exhibited this past year to rave reviews.

And a lot of money—more than $500,000—is spent on selling the city to outsiders. That may seem like a lot, but think about it. More people come to Deadwood, they spend more money, including at the gaming halls. And that’s more money for preservation and renovation. It’s tossing good money after good, so to speak. Mr. Swearengen himself would have to respect that logic.

By its history alone, Deadwood is a Top Western Town. But when you toss in the ingenuity and commitment to preservation, well, you’ve got something special.

Because Deadwood doesn’t play fair.

 

#1 True Western Town of 2008

St. Joseph, MO

 

 

The date: April 3, 1882. 

The setting:A house on a hill in St. Joseph, Missouri. 

A legendary outlaw stands on a chair, straightening or dusting a picture. Behind him, two of his cohorts pull pistols. One fires, the bullet hitting the badman in the back of the head, killing him instantly.

It’s the assassination of Jesse James by the coward Robert Ford (and his equally gutless brother Charles), to steal a title.

After the killing, Jesse’s body is taken to the Heaton funeral home for autopsy and preparation; funeral services are also held. Meanwhile, widow Zee James and her two children move into the Patee House hotel.  Jesse’s mother Zerelda will soon join them.

Two weeks after the shooting, Bob and Charley Ford are brought to trial at the Buchanan County Courthouse in St. Joe. They plead guilty and are sentenced to hang on the local gallows. But per a previous agreement, Missouri Gov. Thomas Crittenden pardons them.

That’s the history (yeah, we know some folks in Texas don’t buy it—just go with us on this). But those buildings are not.

Thanks to the wisdom of the good folks of St. Joe, you can still visit the courthouse. You can see a museum at the funeral home, featuring a logbook and other documents related to the James case. You can enjoy the magnificent architecture, furnishings and historic exhibits of the Patee House. And you can walk through the house on the hill—okay, it’s been moved a couple of blocks, but it’s still around, looking more or less the way it did back in 1882. And those gallows, from which the Ford boys would have done a little swinging? You’ll find them in the Patee House too.

Jesse James is just one reason St. Joseph is this year’s Top True Western Town.

Another is the Pony Express, the Old West’s legendary mail service (although it only operated for 18 months). Prior to its arrival in early 1860, delivery from Missouri to California took about 25 days. But the Express used a relay of riders on fast horses to cut that time down to about 10 days. The Eastern terminus? St. Joseph. And the modern city has many reminders of the operation.

Take the Patee House. The 1858 hotel also served as the Pony Express headquarters, and a number of exhibits showcase its history and legacy. Not far away is the Pony Express National Museum, located in the original Pikes Peak Stables, which is believed to be the starting point of the first express run in 1860. The museum features a number of artifacts from the period, as well as hands-on exhibits and demonstrations.

St. Joe’s heritage goes back further than that. Lewis and Clark came through the area in 1804, and a number of sites related to their expedition are marked. Same goes for the Oregon, California and Mormon Trails—St. Joseph was the starting point for thousands of pioneers who headed west on those routes. Joseph Robidoux founded the town in 1826 (it wasn’t incorporated until 1843)—and several of the buildings he constructed in the 1840s are still around. 

You know, we could go on and on. About how more than 50 structures are on the National Register of Historic Places. Renovation and preservation projects—both public and private—are ongoing and constant. Some 15 museums populate this area, including one for exotic dancer Sally Rand (which conjures the image of Jesse James doing a fan dance ... nah, let’s not go there). Events like April 3rd Days (which commemorates the start of the Pony Express and the killing of Jesse) and Trails West (art and music from around the region) keep things hopping. And citizen involvement is remarkable, in organizations like the Heritage Action Campaign, St. Joseph Preservation, Inc. and the Pony Express Historical Association.

Not everything is Happy Trails. Last year, some preservationists were at loggerheads with local officials over the composition of a new roof for one historic building. Emotions ran high. But that kind of passion indicates a remarkable dedication and commitment to historic preservation. Other towns and cities should have such problems.

Sure, Jesse James found St. Joe to be a killer (so to speak). You’ll find it something else—a great example of what the true West can and should be. It is the Top True Western Town.


Towns to Watch


BRACKETTVILLE, TX

Brackettville is a strange mix of history and legend. The history is Fort Clark, founded in 1852 as a frontier post in southwest Texas that later became home to the famed Buffalo Soldiers. Many buildings have been preserved and restored as part of a historic district. The legend is Alamo Village, just a few miles north of town, one of the most active movie locations in the Lone Star State. Visitors can see where John Wayne’s The Alamo and parts of Lonesome Dove (among others) were shot.


CALDWELL, KS

Last year, a local family finished an unusual monument to a recently lost loved one. The family restored the Border Queen Bordello, a landmark in this former cowtown. That “do it yourself” attitude toward historic preservation is pretty much the rule in this town of 1,280 folks. Caldwell is on the Chisholm Trail; it was the starting point for the last U.S. land rush in 1893 and more than a few gunfights took place there. Check out the Cherokee Strip Visitors Center and Museum.


CODY, WY

Buffalo Bill is all over this town that he helped found in 1895. He built the Irma Hotel in 1902 and named it after his daughter. He was the force behind construction of the nearby dam that bears his name in 1905. Even his boyhood home was moved to Cody. But the jewel in the crown has to be the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, “five museums under one roof” that form one of the most complete Western collections anyplace. The old showman himself would have to be impressed.


COFFEYVILLE, KS

Okay, so the Dalton Gang wasn’t exactly welcomed with open arms when they attempted to withdraw bank funds in October 1892. Overall, Coffeyville is a visitor friendly town. The annual Dalton Days is a major attraction, as is the Dalton Defenders Museum. The plaza—where both banks from the attempted robbery were located—is little changed; same goes for Death Alley, where gang members and townsmen met their maker in the bloody shoot-out. Three of the outlaws stuck around; their grave is at Elmwood Cemetery.


CREEDE, CO

Creede hit the jackpot when silver was discovered in 1890, drawing in fortune seekers including Soapy Smith, Doc Holliday and the assassin of Jesse James, the coward Robert Ford. The last mine closed in 1985, and tourism is the game for the southwest Colorado burg. Creede offers many attractions:?a well-preserved downtown, the historic museum in the old train depot and a mining museum in (naturally) an old mine. The heritage is rich, befitting a Western boomtown.


Towns to Watch


GUTHRIE, OK

One of our favorite Old West places, downtown Guthrie is the largest historic district in the country. Block after block, it’s like stepping back into 1900—thanks to the savvy planning and work of citizens and officials. A visit to the Territorial Museum is a must; check out its silent films featuring authentic lawmen and outlaws. The 89er Celebration, held each April, commemorates the Land Rush that started in Guthrie; it includes a parade and a PRCA rodeo.


HELPER, UT

Our 2007 Top True Western Town isn’t large (about 2,000 residents), but it has a big commitment to preserving its heritage. Original Victorian buildings grace the downtown, with the centerpiece being the Western Mining & Railroad Museum, housed in the 1914 Helper Hotel. Exhibits feature a simulated coal mine, authentic rail cars and the 1897 robbery at nearby Castle Gate by Butch Cassidy and Co. The Wild Bunch chief reportedly visited Helper on several occasions; what better endorsement is there?


LONE PINE, CA

The tree from which the town is named is long gone, but much of its history still lives on in the frontier-style buildings dating back to the 19th century. The natural beauty is astounding, with both Mt. Whitney and Death Valley close by. Lone Pine is probably best known for its annual film festival (October 10-12 this year), which helps honor the area’s movie heritage, dating back to 1920. Gene Autry, Roy Rogers, Hopalong Cassidy and Clint Eastwood all did Oaters here. It just looks and feels Western.


NORTHFIELD, MN

A Western town? Yep—it is west of the Mississippi (barely). And it was the site of the James-Younger Gang raid of 1876. The town celebrates that each September with the Defeat of Jesse James Days, perhaps the best re-enactment you can find. The Northfield Historical Society has a great museum featuring photos from the robbery and the eventual capture of the Youngers. The First National Bank has been restored to look the way it did the day the gang was shot to pieces.


SILVER CITY, NM

The one-time home of Billy the Kid is a preservation success story. Some 40 years ago, the downtown was filled with boarded up buildings. Today, that same area is a national historic district, with numerous old buildings transformed into modern businesses of all kinds. The Silver City Museum (housed in an 1881 home) celebrates the area’s varied heritage—Hispanic, Indian and American. And the Western New Mexico University Museum features a remarkable collection of prehistoric pottery and artifacts.

 

Towns You Should Know

 


BUFFALO, WY

A real Wild West town now preserved as a historic district. You can stay at the Occidental Hotel, which hosted Butch and Sundance, Calamity Jane and President Teddy Roosevelt.


ELLENSBURG, WA

The National Trust for Historic Preservation named this central Washington town as one of its Dozen Distinctive Destinations in 2007—the downtown historic district looks pretty much the same as it did in the early 1890s.


EL PASO, TX

A unique place where Hispanic and American cultures have mingled for 150-plus years. Gunfighters John Wesley Hardin and John Selman settled down here—in Concordia Cemetery, still one of the area’s top attractions.


FORT SMITH, AR

A place synonymous with rope justice, Fort Smith is a living representation of 19th-century army life and law enforcement. The Hanging Judge still lurks....

 

HELENA, MT

Montana’s capital city began honoring its history pretty much from day one—the state historical society museum dates back to 1865, just a year after gold hunters founded the town.


LEADVILLE, CO

The famed mining camp is now a national historic district, with more than 70 blocks of preserved and renovated buildings dating back to the heydays of the 1880s.

 

 

Towns You Should Know

 


LINCOLN, NM

The center of Billy the Kid Country hasn’t changed much since the Kid bit the dust in 1881. A walk down Main Street is a real step back in time—and that’s a good thing.


SACRAMENTO, CA

More than five million folks visit Old Sacramento each year, experiencing the Gold Rush days of the 1840s-50s. A major attraction: the Wells Fargo Museum.


SAN ANTONIO, TX

Sure, everybody remembers the Alamo—but San Antone has 22 local historic districts and hundreds of landmark buildings spanning 290 years.


TAOS, NM

With a heritage going back 6,000 years, this town mixes modern chic with historic buildings, museums and landmarks.


TOMBSTONE, AZ

Arguably the most famous town in the Old West. From the Bird Cage Theatre to the Crystal Palace Saloon, the Earps and Clantons knew them just as you can.


VIRGINIA CITY, MT

The legendary vigilantes brought justice in the 1860s. More recently, private citizens did justice to their history by restoring many of the buildings of that time.


VIRGINIA CITY, NV

Museums? This Comstock Lode town has got ’em, featuring gambling, prostitution and railroads; all celebrate nearly 150 years of Western history. 

 

 

Correction, Feb 2008: The print publication stated the power plant in Durango, Colorado, was the oldest AC plant still in existence, failing to point out it is the oldest powered by steam. The oldest, and first, to transmit AC current was the Ames Station in nearby Ophir. Built two years earlier in 1891, this AC plant was powered by water and is still generating electricity today!

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Comments

st. Joseph is nothing like the city described in this article. The two preservation societies mentioned have disbanded in frustration. Downtown is a ghost town( not one you would like) and preservation is at an all time low. Yes, there are lovely historic homes, if you want to wear blinkers while you drive by crumbling ruins of amazing homes which abound en route to the few which are treated with dignity. If you spend your money to come see a piece of the Old West, you will be in for nothing but disappointment. Try the other nine cities, and skip St. Joseph. We are too busy destroying our heritage here to bother with tourists.

posted by stjomo on 1/09/08 @ 07:01 p.m.

Trinidad Colorado! Great choice! Thank you TW editors for choosing Trinidad ... now everyone knows what we've known for a long time. And thanks to all the Trinidad folks who helped you gather the information you needed.

posted by linda@scenicwestproperties.com on 1/10/08 @ 01:45 p.m.

As a Native of Colorado, western slope, I appreciated your choosing Durango and Trinidad! Creede (?) don't know that one, but if it's in Colorado it's got to be OK. However, since Denver is no longer a "cow-town" and the City has become a "little L.A.", we now live in Cody, Wyoming, which IS a cow-town. I am glad to see that others are also seeing the beauty in Cody. Talk about ART, some of the best western art is right here with our galleries and, of course, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center.
Plus, we're only 50 miles from Yellowstone National Park - the recreational opportunities are endless including a number of guest ranches. Come see us; and when you decide you want to stay, come see me at Homestead Realty.

posted by sue@homesteadrealty.us on 1/10/08 @ 05:01 p.m.

Posting above by stjomo is completely toxic. I have restored one of the oldest homes in St Joseph and can tell you the interest from San Diego, California & Los Angeles is quite stimulating. I have had many guest from the California area visit my home and I have taken most of those guest on a tour of St. Joseph, Missouri and they were awed as if they had seen the glory of God. They wanted to get out of our car and take home tours right there on location. They said St. Joseph is like a fairy tail book with castles upon castles.

I have visited San Diego & Los Angeles and found it to be of no comparison though there are some beautiful architectural structures in Balboa Park in San Diego and a couple of other buildings but in St. Joseph it is spread over the better half of town. One of my friends from the west coast stood in my yard extending each of her arms out, grinning from ear to ear saying, "I had to head east to find the gold."

I had some historians from California asking if they could photograph my yard as their ancestors use to own a Victorian boot company here and they told me my home in Los Angeles would cost 1.2 million as they just looked at one like ours.

Some described the homes in our area as jewels they were interested in investing in. Some were amazed that my home was built in 1848 so I showed them the abstract and the blue print of our Princess Ann. They didn't realize that architecture followed the life of Queen Ann so they were thinking all the houses that have cones on the roofs were the oldest and surprised that many of the homes with mansard roofs were actually older as the Queen Ann's were built in the 1860's.

I had one person from California tell me she was originally from Idaho and I ask her if she was familiar with William Ridenbaugh, "No she replied but she mentioned the Ridenbaugh Canal and I told her you are in the home of the Ridenbaugh's and the Ridenbaugh you have mentioned is the son of William Ridenbaugh whom started the St. Joseph News Press and it was his son that build the Ridenbaugh Canal.

My friends from San Diego were surprised to learn that it was seven nuns from Kirksville Missouri that founded their town. They were amazed to learn that some of the most elite of society has come from Missouri and not surprisingly many from St. Joseph.

You will not be disappointed to visit St. Joseph, Missouri as it is totally exciting here, from a photographers point of view. ;>)

posted by ThisPlaceHasPotential on 1/11/08 @ 11:15 a.m.

So glad to see that Trinidad is finally getting recognized for the historical architecture and scenic beauty that we have enjoyed for years. www.SouthernColoradoRealty.com is a great way to check out real estate listings in the Trinidad, Colorado area.

posted by rollodanielle on 1/22/08 @ 03:40 p.m.

PROPERTY VIDEOS at www.ranchviews.com

Las Animas County and Trinidad Colorado are great places to live and retire. We came here 9 years ago and found incredible land, lower prices, and taxes so low that they almost don't exist.

The area weather is great with an even four season climate. 82 degree average summer temp and 50 degree average winter temp. It snows and stays around long enough for you to have some hot chocolate and say ahhhh isn't that nice. Then, the snow goes away.

Check out some PROPERTY VIDEOs at www.ranchviews.com

Todd Gatza

Broker
Trinidad Land Realty
719 680 0690

posted by elkspleen on 2/04/08 @ 07:48 a.m.

You also forgot to mention that the hanging site of Horn is on the second floor of the original courthouse. Just outside the door to the D.A.'s office

posted by Westdep on 6/01/08 @ 09:18 a.m.
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